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Rover type diffs

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  • FAQs

    What are the torque settings for :

    10 x Crown Wheel Bolts - 60Nm

    4 x Journal End Cap Bolts - 90Nm

    1 x Pinion Bolt - 100Nm

    1 x Rover Pinion Nut - 129Nm

    1 x P38 Nut - 135Nm

    Is my Rover diff Metric or Imperial ?

    The diffs changed from imperial to metric in about 1983, the way of telling which you have is if you have a look on the head of one of the 4 journal end cap bolts and if you have '8.8' written on the head it's metric.

    I have a 110 and want to know if the rear axle is a Salisbury type or the later P38/Wolfe type ?

    They changed from the Salisbury to the P38 type is approx 2002, when standing behind the vehicle looking at the rear face of the rear axle the Salisbury has a pressed steel cover plate with about 10 bolts holding it on and is much larger than the Rover axle.

    I want to fit the Heavy Duty 3.5 ratio ring and pinion in the rear axle but leave the 3.54 in the front, will this be OK ?

    There will be a ratio difference but it is quite small, with the centre diff locked on a low traction surface this will be OK as occasionally one wheel may slip to stop the driveline 'winding up'. When on road with the centre diff unlocked, the centre diff will turn slowly to allow for the ratio difference, this slow turning will not wear the diff excessively. The only instance where this ratio difference could cause a problem would be if you were on the road or on a high traction surface with the centre diff locked which of course you should not be.

  • Technical

    Please note the early Range Rover (upto about 1983) 10 spline diff had the oil filler plug in the diff as opposed to in the axle housing like the later vehicles, if you need this early type please be sure to mention this when ordering.

    The stock diffs are not particulaly strong if you are a regular off roader, the usual failure mode for these 2-pin diffs is friction welding of the 2 small sun gears to the cross pin resulting in the pin shearing and instant failure, this process happens very quickly when wheel spinning.

    If you find you are breaking the stock diffs regulaly I would suggest looking at either the 4-pin diff or a limited slip or locking type.

    If you are unsure if you have metric or imperial diffs note that the diffs changed from imperial to metric in about 1983, the way of telling which you have is if you have a look on the head of one of the 4 journal end cap bolts and if you have '8.8' written on the head it's metric.